Lawn Care

Lawn care in each season

Spring

As soon as the topsoil layer dries, the essential tasks can be commenced, which shall awaken the lawn from its winter slumber. Begin with a thorough clean-up of the lawn’s surface, which is tied in with further expedient measures:

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  • Remove all fallen or windblown leaves, branches, and, if need be, stones.
  • With a sharp rake (or even better, a scarifying rake), rake up or scarify the existing sod to a depth of 3–5 mm. This aerates the lawn and removes moss and emerging felt – the lawn is as if newborn. A lawnmower can then be used on the piled up matter. The collected matter can then be composted.
  • Yellowing or browning lawn growth is the result of major soil hardening or an over-watered or otherwise unsatisfactory condition, or sometimes even the work of a fungus disease. In that case, aerification must be applied by evenly distributing highly silicate sand on the lawn (1 000 g/m2).
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  • One must also not forget the proper nourishment of grass sod, which is best applied as fully combined fertilizer (30 g/m2). Keep in mind that large amounts of mowing during the growing season drain many nutrients out of the soil, which must be added back to the soil and be periodically maintained to ensure the lawn’s successful growth. For the rapid regeneration of damaged grass, small doses of calcium nitrate can regularly be scattered (10 g/m2).
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  • In cases where some areas of the lawn are heavily damaged, it is a good idea to sow some grass mixture used for establishing lawns or the RENEWAL grass seed mixture (25 g/m2), which will rapidly fill out damaged lawn areas.
  • Lawns which are over 50 % damaged are best renewed as a whole.
  • At the end of spring, take chemical or mechanical action against broad-leaved weeds, which definitely do not belong in decorative or heavy-duty lawns.

Summer

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The treatment of existing lawns consists primarily of several minor measures that must be carried out timely and accurately. Particularly in July and August, in the full summer period, which tests the quality of an established lawn and the care that one puts into it.Lawns established in the spring should be treated very gently until they have thoroughly taken root. All lawns should be mowed in appropriate intervals according to the purpose for which the lawn is grown, as well as according to the speed of overgrowth. One should stick to the rule that the grass should be shortened by one-third in temperatures exceeding 25 °C; by one-half in temperatures between 20 and 25 °C. In temperatures below 20 °C, one can cut off as much as two-thirds. Otherwise, in the harsh sunlight, one can be sure that the lawn will begin turning yellow, thin out, and generally become an unpleasant sight.

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The lawn must never start to dry out and wither. In such cases, the lawn must be watered in larger doses, best at the rate of 20 mm/m2 every three or four days, or every day in smaller doses in the early morning or after sunset. Never water the lawn in full sunlight – this will give the grass a bad sunburn, and cause fungus and mould to develop rapidly, which will markedly damage the grass.

In order to maintain the lawn’s fresh green look and replenish nutrients drained by mowing, fertilize grass areas with nitrogen fertilizer in 14 to 20-day intervals. Only establish a new lawn in July or August on the condition that effective irrigation is at hand, since the area sown must not be allowed to dry out. Water with a fine sprinkler continuously from the time of sowing until the grass emerges.

Autumn

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The autumn months facilitate, or rather require, the entire system of lawn care measures, since it is a very good time to establish lawns as well as to conduct further regenerative measures. The goal is not only to improve the lawn, but also to prepare it for winter hibernation. At the beginning of autumn, it is a good idea to repeat the measures taken in the spring, such as scarifying, or even aerification if needed. One must also not forget the proper nourishment of grass sod, which is best when applied as fully combined fertilizer, since frequent mowing in the previous season has depleted the soil of a large portion of its nutrients. It is necessary to re-add these nutrients to the soil for lawn growth in the autumn and for the grass’ successful winter hibernation. If one still wants to correct undesirable soil reactions with calcium (a pH level between 5.5 and 6.5 is optimal), use ground limestone, or, even better, dolomite limestone, which contains the most magnesium. Never put calcium and fertilizer on at the same time, and also do not mix calcium fertilizer with industrial fertilizer. For the rapid regeneration of damaged grass, small doses of calcium nitrate can regularly be scattered (10 g per m2).

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In view of the biological development of weeds, autumn is just the time to liquidate and suppress them. Dicotyledonous weeds don’t look good in the grass and serve no purpose – they only deprive the grass of water and nutrients, and will gradually start to drive the grass out. Therefore, treat grassy areas with commonly accessible chemicals. If there are heavily damaged areas in your lawn, it would do good to sow it with grass mixtures for the establishment of new lawns or the RENEWAL grass seed mixture. New lawns can still be established as late as the end of October, since the rapidly cooling temperature will make the grass emerge in the spring of the following year. Depending on weather conditions, one can mow the grass for the last time in November when autumn leaves and other organic remains are raked up and removed. If mice appear, wait for dry weather and put poison traps in any holes. Before the arrival of winter, it is possible to spread a layer of ripe compost on the lawn, which helps level the surface off and improves the lawn’s nutrient content.

Winter

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Lawns should be moderately overgrown during winter. Waste (dead grass) must be removed from the lawn by the onset of winter. Otherwise, there is a risk of major fungal diseases during winter’s course. During the seasonal frosts without snow cover, do not walk on the lawn or put pressure on it, since this can seriously damage the grass. Likewise, do not walk on the grass during thaws, since walking on the softened earth will make it uneven.

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